Making a Floor Lamp out of a Table Lamp

Before...

After

This was a crazy idea!  Hobby Lobby had lamps on clearance -- such a great deal that I decided it was time to update my lamps in my front room.  But the configuration in that room required a floor lamp.  I tried to put a small table there, but it just didn't do it!  So I turned to the internet to see if there were instructions on how to modify a lamp this way.

I found a nice little explanation in a blog photo post by Laure Joliet.  It looks like she got it elsewhere, so I'm not sure I'm giving the original source the proper credit here.  Find it here:  How to Rewire a Thrift Store Lamp

I printed the color photo instructions out, bought a lamp extension kit at my hardware store, and got out my electrical wiring tools.

Being the crazy fearless nut that I am, I got busy and took the lamp apart.  I removed the small pipe that rested on the top of the lamp and bought the same size pipe in the length that I wanted.  I sprayed a pipe the same color as the lamp base.  Note that it took two different colors to get the same look as the original lamp.  I then pulled the wire up from the base to the proper length, put the lamp extension kit pieces together over the wire.  I then put the newly painted pipe in place, and wired it to the new length.  The results are just what I wanted.  Only problem, the lamp base is not as heavy as a manufactured floor lamp, so it falls over sometimes.  Looking for a solution to that problem next...  Stay tuned.

Sweater Hangers -- Solution to Sagging Sweaters Losing their Shape

I haven't posted in a long time, just busy with my other blogs.  But yesterday I decided to act on an impulse to finally figure out how to modify hangers so they could hold sweaters without the sweaters sagging.  Sweaters lose their shape if they are hung on smooth hangers.  They sag and stretch out.  I remember seeing yarn covered hangers in my grandma's house.  It looked like some sort of macrame knotting on the metal hangers.  So I turned to YouTube.

I found a few tutorials on it, but none of them satisfied me.  I tried the one that looked like a macrame knot but it was tedious and took forever to make a few inches of progress.  I looked at another tutorial and liked what I saw, but I still adapted it to simplify and speed up the process.

Yolanda gives a great tutorial here: Vintage style- crochet hanger cover with attached clothespins

In it, Yolanda crochets a cover for a hanger right onto the hanger.  It's a beautiful solution and I'm grateful for her good explanation of the stitch and her process.  I changed it slightly to speed it up and make it more durable.  And you'll notice I didn't add the clothespins or flower.

First-- I used 3 identical metal hangers taped together.  That way it would be nice and strong and hold it's shape really well.  Don't use plastic!  If you go to all this work to make a covering, you want it to last a long time.  Plastic hangers break.

Second-- I used 2 yarns together to make it go faster.  It added bulk which I wanted.  The rounder the hanger, the less impact it would have on the sweater.

Third-- I modified her stitch slightly.  I pulled one loop from inside the hanger, then a loop from outside the hanger through the first loop and the loop from the last stitch.  Yolanda has an added loop before going into the hanger.  I found that loop unnecessary.  When you watch her tutorial, you may decide to leave that loop in. 

As I crocheted around the hanger, I ended at the end of the hook and hot glued the end to the very tip, so it would not slide off.

I picked up the stitch quickly and was able to make 9 hangers in about 2 hours as I enjoyed sitting by the fire with my family.  I'm very happy with the results of this and hope to make many more. Thanks to Yolanda for her great tutorial that got me started!

Sundress Conversion to a Skirt

I've been converting sundresses into skirts all Spring as I've anticipated another hot summer.  I don't like to wear sundresses because I like my shoulders and my knees covered!  Today I took photos of how I do it to share on the blog.  Here's the dress I bought at a thrift store yesterday.  I bought a sun dress several sizes larger than I wear, since the waist of this dress will be at my hip when I'm finished.  This particular sundress has a bias-gathered waistband, which gave me extra fabric with which to work to add to the length.  It was a cotton/poly blend.  After washing it, I began work. 

Left:  Before- Sundress              Right:  After- cute skirt!

First I cut the side seams from the top of the bodice to about half way down the skirt.  In one of the side seams, a zipper was in place.  Cutting out the side seams removed the zipper.  I can reuse it in something else.

I then cut off the bodice at the seam. 

I cut off the lining on the back side of the waistband too.   Be careful not to catch the waistband fabric in the scissors while cutting off the seam. 

I ironed the waistband flat, removing the creases resulting from the original gathers.  I pinned the sides back together and stitched them, easing into the existing seam on the skirt.  I Serged the seam to clean it up.

I ironed the top of the waistband 1/4", then folded it over and pinned it all the way around just larger than my elastic.  So the casing is about 1" and my elastic is 3/4."

After stitching the waistband seam, I threaded some elastic into the casing.  I left a 2" gap in the casing seam at one of the side seams to use as an opening for the elastic.  

After threading all of the elastic through, I stitched the edges together and closed up the casing.  I ironed the side seams flat and tried it on.  It fits great and reaches just to the right length on my legs.  My $2.50 sundress and an hour of time gave me a really cute and versatile skirt.

Cute skirt after

Some things to remember when you do this conversion:

• Choose a sundress that is several sizes larger than you would normally wear.  Try it on to see if the waist will fit comfortably around your hips. 
• Cotton or Cotton blends work well.  Thin or slippery fabrics would also work but be harder to work with. 
• Cut the elastic to the size of your waist without stretching it.  Then you can stitch it together at a comfortable snug fit when you insert it into the waistband.  If you have any excess, don't cut it off, just leave it in the casing  in the event you need extra elastic in the skirt later.
• Iron between sewing seams to keep the seams flat and the garment looking sharp.  If you have a serger, tidy up the seams by serging them after seaming.  
• To know front from back, consider sewing the original labels back into the garment at the waistband back.  

Making a Pattern from a Christmas Ruffled Apron

A good friend of mine showed me this apron when she had seen some of my aprons.  She asked me to make a pattern from it.  I did, then made one up (minus the bib) using the pattern.  I really like it!

Here's the original apron:

Here's the one I made without the bib:

Here is the pattern:

Pattern:  Christmas Ruffles Apron

Bib Fabric:  Fat quarter (Cut out using tulip patterns)

Ruffle backing:  24”x 18” piece of Muslin (Cut to trapezoid shape 17” high, 16” across top and 24” across bottom)

Top and bottom  ruffles:  ½ yard fabric (Cut top 8”x 26” and bottom 8”x32”)

Middle ruffle:  ¼ yd fabric (Cut 8”x 28”)

Ties:  1/3 yard fabric, same color as bias tape (Cut strips 3 ½”x 40” for neck and two 3 ½”x 45” for waist)

3 yards double fold bias tape

Directions (Note all seams have 1/2” seam allowance):

1.  Finish the upper edge of small tulip piece with bias tape.  With wrong sides together, stitch tulip pieces together.  Finish the seam and continue up the top of the large tulip piece with bias tape.  Tack the overlapping bias tape down on the small tulip piece.  Hem sides of bib. 

2.  Hem sides and bottom of the Ruffle Backing muslin piece. 

3.  Finish lower edges of the three ruffle pieces with bias tape.  Serge the top edges of the three ruffle pieces.  Pin lower ruffle to the bottom edge of the Ruffle backing muslin piece.   Match sides and centers, then pleat the ruffle evenly, securing it with pins.  Top stitch bottom ruffle piece in place.  Repeat for the other two ruffle pieces, being sure to overlap the pieces so the bottom of the upper ruffle covers the upper edge of the lower ruffle.  The upper ruffle should be about 2 inches below the top edge of the Ruffle Backing Muslin piece.

4.  With wrong sides together, stitch the bib piece to the Ruffle Backing Muslin piece, matching centers.  On each side of the bib, finish the upper edges of the Ruffle Backing Muslin piece by pressing ½ inch hem wrong side out. 

5.  Stitch the two waist tie pieces together to make a long strip.  Cut it to 65”.  Fold the tie fabric in half lengthwise right sides together and stitching along the edge.  Pull right side out and press.  Hem both edges.  Repeat for the neck tie fabric, cutting in two sections 20” each. 

6.  Lay waist tie fabric across the seam between the bib and the Ruffle Backing Muslin piece and pin, matching centers.  Pin it to overlap the top ruffle Serged edge.  Top stitch in place. 

7.  Attach ties at the corners of the tulip bib for the neck ties. 

© 2012 Melanie Johnson

'A is for Apron' inspired Aprons

I was ecstatic to get this book on a variety of aprons for my birthday recently.  I chose a few to make as birthday gifts for my daughters.  My only complaint is that the patterns are meant to be enlarged 400%, which is difficult and expensive here.  Had there been a grid, I could have reproduced them with a marker and some grid-lined paper. 

The first one is called 'Marie Antoinette' very appropriately.  I used remnant fabric that I had used for this particular daughter's prom dresses in the past.  That made it really meaningful for her.

The one thing I changed in the pattern was to keep the main fabric separate from the backing fabric.  It's the only fabric that is washable (kind of dumb to make an apron that you can't wash, eh?)  So I wanted it to be separate, so my daughter can at least hand wash that part and use the apron.   She loved it!

The other apron I made from this book is called 'Waldorf.'  I didn't use the actual pattern; I hadn't gone to the printing shop yet to have any of the patterns enlarged.  Instead I measured the pattern and multiplied the result by 4 (since it is to be enlarged by 400%) and I free-handed the scallops.  I also used wider bias tape than the pattern recommended.  I like the look of wide outlines.  I also added pink ric-rack in the seams as I stitched the bias tape in.  It punched up the outline.

It turned out great as well.  Can't wait to try some of the patterns I did manage to enlarge.  Stay tuned...

Mornu, Nathalie.  A is for Apron; 25 Fresh and Flirty Designs. Lark Books, 2008.

A 'Little Train that Could' themed Apron

When I was shopping for apron patterns, I saw this one-- the Butterick B5726.  I like how this pattern has straps that go over the shoulder to the waistband for a more secure fit.  The pattern also works well with horizontal stripes and patterns.  When my daughter needed an apron for a themed party, I got this pattern out to work with the strong horizontal train pattern.  I used 'Little Golden Book' themed fabric, using the gold book inside for the pockets and straps, and the matching 'Little Train that Could' border and main fabric for the skirt. 

I used view B, but changed the bib dramatically to showcase one of the trains from the border.  Using the pattern, I made sure that it was the same size as the pattern piece.  This is how it turned out:

She looked so cute in it!  I have more fabric with strong borders or horizontal lines that will work well with this pattern.

Hooray for Aprons

I got a bit crazy when the Apron bug bit me.  I trolled JoAnns for patterns and dug through the internet for photos of retro aprons with new fabrics.  I ended up buying a couple of patterns, borrowing an admired apron and receiving an Apron book for my birthday.  Now, several aprons later, I'll post the fun!  This apron is from the Simplicity pattern#2298 view B.

 

This is the same pattern but view A

.

 

This is the same pattern View A but I added a ruffle and extra detail to the pocket.  I love the ruffle!  I have more fabric picked out for this affect in new aprons!

Can't wait to keep experimenting on this pattern...